February might still feel like winter in many places, but it’s actually one of the best months to start pruning.
While the garden may look quiet, this is the perfect time to shape trees, trim back overgrown shrubs, and prepare plants for strong spring growth.
Pruning in February helps encourage new shoots, removes dead or diseased wood, and improves overall plant health before the growing season begins.
But not all plants benefit from winter pruning.
Cutting back the wrong plant at the wrong time can lead to fewer blooms, weaker growth, or even permanent damage.
To make sure you’re setting your garden up for success, it’s important to know which plants should be pruned in February—and how to do it correctly.
Let’s take a look at the plants that benefit most from a February trim and the best techniques to use.
Fruit Trees: Pruning for a Better Harvest
February is one of the best times to prune fruit trees, especially apples and pears.
While the trees are still dormant, they are less vulnerable to stress and disease, making it the perfect moment to shape them for the season ahead.
Pruning in late winter encourages healthy new growth, improves air circulation, and helps produce larger, better-quality fruit later in the year.
One of the most common mistakes gardeners make is letting their fruit trees grow too wild.
Without regular pruning, branches become overcrowded, competing for light and nutrients.
This leads to weak growth, smaller fruit, and a higher risk of disease.
By pruning in February, you can open up the canopy, allowing more sunlight to reach the developing fruit and improving airflow around the branches.
The key to successful pruning is knowing what to cut.
Start by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches.
These are easy to spot, as they often appear dry, brittle, or discolored.
Next, look for branches that cross or rub against each other.
These can cause wounds that make the tree vulnerable to infection.
Once you’ve cleared out problem areas, focus on shaping the tree.
The goal is to create a strong structure with well-spaced branches that allow light to reach every part of the tree.
For apples and pears, an open-center or modified central leader shape works best.
Avoid over-pruning, as removing too much wood at once can shock the tree and reduce fruit production.
A good rule of thumb is to remove no more than one-third of the tree’s total growth in a single year.
If your tree is young, use this time to train its shape, encouraging a sturdy framework that will support future harvests.
For mature trees, focus on maintaining structure and removing any weak or unproductive branches.
While February pruning is ideal for apples and pears, some fruit trees—such as cherries and plums—should be pruned later in the year when they are actively growing.
These trees are more susceptible to disease if pruned in winter.
By giving your fruit trees a proper February pruning, you’ll set them up for a strong, productive season, leading to bigger and healthier fruit when harvest time arrives.
Roses: Preparing for an Abundant Bloom
Roses are one of the most rewarding plants to grow, but without proper pruning, they can become leggy, weak, and prone to disease.
Late winter, particularly February, is the perfect time to prune most rose varieties.
With the plants still dormant, pruning encourages vigorous new growth and sets the stage for a stunning floral display in the months to come.
Pruning roses can feel intimidating, especially if you’re worried about cutting too much or too little.
But once you understand the basic steps, it becomes much easier.
The first thing to do is remove any dead or damaged canes.
These will often appear brown, dry, or shriveled compared to healthy green stems.
Next, trim back any weak or thin growth.
Roses produce their best blooms on strong, healthy stems, so getting rid of weak canes allows the plant to direct energy into the best branches.
When pruning, make clean cuts at a 45-degree angle, about a quarter-inch above an outward-facing bud.
This encourages the plant to grow outward rather than inward, reducing the risk of overcrowding and improving airflow.
Better airflow helps prevent fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew, which thrive in dense, poorly ventilated rose bushes.
The amount you prune depends on the type of rose you’re growing.
Hybrid teas and floribundas benefit from a harder prune, where you remove up to half the plant’s height to encourage fresh new canes.
Shrub roses and climbers need a lighter prune, mainly focusing on shaping and removing old wood.
While pruning, it’s also a good time to refresh the soil around your roses.
Adding compost or well-rotted manure will give them a boost of nutrients before they start actively growing in spring.
By pruning your roses in February, you’re ensuring a strong, healthy plant that will reward you with bigger, more abundant blooms when the warmer months arrive.
Hydrangeas: Trimming for Bigger and Better Flowers
Hydrangeas are one of the most beloved flowering shrubs, known for their massive blooms that add elegance and color to gardens.
However, pruning them at the wrong time can mean fewer flowers—or none at all.
February is an excellent time to trim certain types of hydrangeas, but before you grab your pruning shears, you need to know which variety you have.
Not all hydrangeas should be pruned in winter.
The key to successful hydrangea pruning is understanding whether your plant blooms on old wood or new wood.
Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood, such as bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) and oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia), should not be pruned in February.
These types develop flower buds on the previous year’s growth, so cutting them now could remove the buds before they have a chance to bloom.
If you have these varieties, wait until after they flower in summer to do any pruning.
On the other hand, hydrangeas that bloom on new wood, such as smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) and panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata), can be pruned in late winter.
These types form flower buds on fresh growth, so trimming them in February encourages a burst of healthy new stems that will produce bigger, better blooms in summer.
To prune new wood hydrangeas, start by removing any dead or damaged stems.
Next, cut the plant back by about one-third, trimming just above a set of healthy buds.
This helps maintain a good shape while encouraging vigorous growth.
For smooth hydrangeas like ‘Annabelle,’ a more aggressive pruning—cutting the plant down to about 12 inches from the ground—can result in larger flower heads.
For panicle hydrangeas, a lighter prune to shape the shrub and remove weak stems is usually best.
By pruning the right hydrangeas in February, you’ll set them up for a spectacular display of flowers in the months ahead.
Getting the timing right ensures your hydrangeas remain healthy, vibrant, and full of the show-stopping blooms they’re known for.
Clematis: Keeping Vines Healthy and Full of Flowers
Clematis vines can transform a garden with their climbing beauty and abundant flowers, but without proper pruning, they can become tangled, weak, and less productive.
The tricky part is that not all clematis should be pruned in the same way.
February is the perfect time to prune certain clematis varieties, particularly those that bloom on new wood.
To determine if your clematis needs a February trim, check which pruning group it belongs to.
Clematis are divided into three pruning groups based on when and how they bloom.
Group 1 clematis bloom in early spring on old wood and should not be pruned in February.
These include varieties like Clematis montana and Clematis armandii, which should only be pruned after they finish blooming.
Group 2 clematis bloom on both old and new wood and require only light pruning in late winter.
These varieties, such as ‘Nelly Moser’ and ‘The President,’ should be lightly shaped in February by removing dead or weak stems while keeping most of the vine intact.
Group 3 clematis bloom on new wood and benefit the most from February pruning.
These include summer and fall bloomers like Clematis ‘Jackmanii’ and ‘Sweet Autumn.’
For these, cut all stems back to about 12 to 18 inches from the ground, just above a set of healthy buds.
This encourages strong new growth and ensures an abundance of flowers in the coming season.
Pruning also helps control the vine’s size and prevents it from becoming a tangled mess.
Over time, an unpruned clematis can develop a thicket of dead stems, making it harder for new growth to emerge.
By giving it a proper cut in February, you’ll promote a fresh start and encourage healthier, more productive vines.
Whether your clematis climbs a trellis, fence, or arbor, regular pruning will keep it looking its best, full of vibrant flowers from summer through fall.
Ornamental Grasses and Perennials: Cutting Back for a Fresh Start
February is the perfect time to tidy up your garden by cutting back ornamental grasses and certain perennials.
Even though these plants may have looked beautiful swaying in the winter wind, leaving them untrimmed for too long can lead to messy growth, dead patches, and a harder time for new shoots to emerge in spring.
Pruning them now ensures they start the growing season strong, fresh, and full of energy.
Ornamental grasses, such as maiden grass, switchgrass, and fountain grass, should be cut back before new growth begins.
If left untrimmed, last year’s dead stalks can block sunlight and slow down new shoots.
By cutting them down to about six inches from the ground, you allow room for fresh, green blades to push through without obstruction.
The best way to prune ornamental grasses is to bundle the stems together with twine and then use sharp pruning shears or hedge trimmers to cut straight across.
This makes cleanup easier and ensures an even cut.
Some cool-season grasses, like fescue and feather reed grass, may not need a hard cut but can benefit from a light trim to remove dead tips.
Certain perennials also need a February pruning to rejuvenate their growth.
Late-winter pruning is especially beneficial for plants like coneflowers, bee balm, yarrow, and sedum.
These perennials often hold onto their dried flower heads through the winter, but cutting them back now will help new shoots emerge more quickly.
When pruning perennials, cut them back to just above the crown of the plant, being careful not to damage any emerging new growth.
By clearing out old stems, you not only improve the plant’s appearance but also help prevent pests and diseases from overwintering in the dead foliage.
Cutting back ornamental grasses and perennials in February ensures they get a fresh start before spring arrives.
It allows them to grow more vigorously, produce better blooms, and keep your garden looking neat and well-maintained.
A little effort now will lead to a lush, thriving garden in just a few months.
Final Thoughts
Pruning in February is one of the best things you can do to prepare your garden for the upcoming growing season.
Whether it’s shaping fruit trees, encouraging rose blooms, or cutting back grasses and perennials, proper pruning ensures stronger, healthier plants.
By knowing which plants to prune now and which to leave alone, you’ll set yourself up for a garden that is full of life, color, and beauty when spring arrives.